Frank Bruni: gustatory everyman, fighting for truth, justice, and moderately priced wine lists, or needlessly coy sybarite who’s really better suited to devise clever, double-entendre titles for porn flicks?
On the plus side, he does have the nice, rounded features of a frat boy gone to seed–and if the NNDB is to be believed, he bats for our team. All you pun-loving cakeboys, have at him….
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